Putevima bratstva & jedinstva (drugi dio) | On the Road of Brotherhood & Unity (part 2)

(English translation is in Italics)

Ovo je drugi, ujedno i posljednji, dio mojih putočestvija. I prvi i drugi dio su mi oduzeli dosta vremena, i sa ovim ću morati završiti elaborat. Nakon prvog dijela, koji se zasnivao na mojim putočestvijama duž zemlje Srbije, ovaj drugi dio se zasniva na bazanju po Hrvatskoj.

Kao i u prvom dijelu, tako ću se i u ovom zbog manjka vremena i opširnosti posta osvrnuti samo na mjesta koja su na mene ostavila najviše utisaka. Mjesta o kojima neću pričati, a nezaslužuju ništa manje pažnje nego druga su Doboj, Tuzla, Bihać, Karlovac, Ogulin, Vrbovsko, Delnice, Brod na Kupi, Podstene, Pazin, Učka, Novi Vinodolski, Zagreb i druga mjesta kojih se ne mogu više ni sjetiti. 

Why the name Brotherhood&Unity? Because that was the name of the famous highway during the Yugoslavia era that spread from Austrian border in Slovenia, through Croatia and Serbia all the way to southern Macedonia. This is the second, and the last part of my travels through the Balkan countries. If you haven't already, you can read the first part here.

"Kad pogledam naše more

naše rijeke, naše gore

svu ljepotu gdje sam rođena.."

GORSKI KOTAR | MOUNTAIN DISTRICT

Moravice 

Vraćanje korijenima. To je ono najjače. Tu smo najosjetljiviji. Najranjiviji. Tu se ne dira. Tu su bezbrižni dani, trčanje po livadama, veranje po stablima, padovi sa istih, oderana koljena, prašnjava kosa. Tu je poljsko cvijeće, vijenac od tratinčica, jabuka sa grane, mrkva iz zemlje, crv u šljivi. Tu su baka & deka. Oni su obrana od cijelog svijeta. Tu je bakino "svako jutro jedno jaje organizmu snagu daje". Tu je dedino skupljanje meda i njegovo "ubod pčele je najbolji ljek za reumu". Tu je zujanje pčela, kukurikanje pijetla i miris sela. Tu je lastiš i klikeranje, lopte, indijanci&kauboji, kamionče žuto. Tu je i košnja sijena, i branje krumpira, i vrcanje meda, tu su ukradeni kukuruzi i pečenje istih (najslađi su ukradeni). I tu je miris dunje na ormaru i dedina tamburica. To je mjesto gdje te kukurikanje pijevca probudi u ranu zoru i gdje te zujanje pčela uspava dok popodne ležiš iza pčelinjaka u visećoj mreži razapetoj između dva drveta. Tu su i zimske radosti i prozebli prsti (najbolje grudve se rade bez rukavica!). I miris pečenog kruha i vožnja u dedinoj Volcvagen bubi iz '62. Tu su i jezuške, i čitanje stripova, i biciklijade. Tu je djetinjstvo i odrastanje. Tu je zavičaj. Moj zavičaj. I tamo uvijek lete moje misli kad god hoću da pobjegnem od realnosti. Može čovjek i da ima mjesto rođenja i mjesto gdje živi, i mjesto gdje se odseli. Ali zavičaj može biti samo jedan, onaj gdje je duša odrasla. 

Welcome to the place where I grew up..

Malo povijesti mjesta 
Moravice se nalaze na putu između Rijeke (72km) i Zagreba (110km) i svega nekoliko kilometara zračne linije od granice sa Slovenijom. Centar mjesta se nalazi na oko 420 metara nadmorske visine dok ostala sela, razbacana po okolnim brdima, sežu i do 600 metara. Tu protiče rijeka Dobra koja se kasnije uljeva u Kupu kod Karlovca. Početkom 16. vijeka, nakon što su Turci opustošili taj kraj, stanovnika na tom području gotovo i da nije bilo. Početkom 17. vijeka ta područja počinje naseljavati stanovništvo iz Ličkog Pounja, koje je bilo pretežno pravoslavne vjeroispovjesti. Nakon što se izgradila željeznička pruga još davne 1873.  godine između Rijeke i Zagreba, Moravice se počinju razvijati kao najvažnije željezničko čvorište na toj liniji, sa oko 30 kolosijeka. Danas je bruka da vidite kako prolazi lokomotiva koja vuče čak tri putnička vagona, sa brojem putnika koje možete nabrojati na prste jedne ruke. Ne iznenađuje me s obzirom na propalu ekonomsku situaciju u državi. S obzirom da je mjesto baš na pola puta između glavnog grada i glavne luke ne možete ga omašiti. Doduše morate ići sada takozvanom "starom" cestom jer od kako su napravili novi autoput Moravice su postala zaobilazna putanja. Priroda je u ovom kraju gotovo netaknuta i mjesto sa okolicom nudi zaista očaravajuće prizore sa zelenom oazom mira. Ako slučajno prolazite ovim krajevima obavezno da javite i da svratite kod mojih na salaš!

This picture was taken from a village that looks 

onto my grandparents' village, on the opposite hill.

Moravice is not a place where I was born but the place where I grew up. It is an hour away from Rijeka, the city where I was born. It is the place where both of my grandparents lived. There is no place like the place where you grow up. There might be a place where you were born, where you live or where you move to but there is only one place where your soul comes to peace every time you think about this place. This is the place of my carefree childhood, the place of running around the endless fields, climbing trees, picking wildflowers and apples, pulling carrots and eating them straight from the ground. It is where the crowing of the roosters wakes you up in the morning, and where the buzzing of the bees and the smell of a village puts you to sleep during the afternoon nap in the garden. It is mowing the hay and harvesting potatoes. It is winter sports and reading comic books by the fire. It is driving VW beetle in my grandfather's lap. It is the smell of fresh bread. That's where my thoughts always fly away when I want to escape from reality. 

Folklorna grupa | Folklore group

History of Moravice
The place is located on the road between Rijeka (72 km) and Zagreb (110km) and only a few air kilometers away from the border with Slovenia. The center is at about 420 meters above the sea level, while other villages, scattered on the surrounding hills, reach up to 600 meters. Dobra is the river that flows through the center of the town. In the early 16th century after the Turks had destroyed the area there was almost no inhabitants in the surrounded area. In the early 17th century this area was settled by the people from Lichko Pounje and their religion was predominantly Christian Orthodox. When the railroad was built back in 1873 between Rijeka and Zagreb, Moravice became one of  the most important railway junctions, with about 30 tracks. Since the construction of the railway stations it has been the main railway hub and most of the occupations were related to railways which left a deep mark to present day. Today it is a disgrace to see that a passing locomotive pulls only three passenger cars with enough passengers that can be counted on the fingers of one hand. I'm not surprised given the collapsed economic situation in the country. Given that the place is exactly halfway between the capital and the main port, you can not miss it. However you have to go now via so-called "old" road since they made a new highway that makes Moravice on a side way path. Nature in this area is almost untouched and the place offers a truly enchanting scenes and the green oasis of peace. If you happen to pass by make sure you stop to check it out, you won't regret it.

Čogrljevo jezero

Izvor jezera sačinjava pet malih izvora koji se slijevaju u njega. Na jezeru je i slap koji se nekad koristio za pogon male pilane i mlina (danas vise nisu u funkciji). Jezero je smješteno uz sam rub crnogorične šume koja mu za ljetnih mjeseci daje posebnu svježinu i mir. Uz sam rub jezera postoji puteljak kojim se ovo jezero moze obići i par klupica na kojima se možete odmoriti i ako dovoljno dugo posmatrate možda ugledate i stalnu stanovnicu jezera - potočnu pastrvu.

Chogrljevo Lake

The Lake is created from five small springs that flow into the lake. There is also a waterfall that was once used to drive a small sawmill and a mill (today they are no longer in function). The lake is situated at the very edge of the forest and during the summer months it provides freshness and peaceful surrounding. At the edge of the lake there is a narrow pathway so one can tour around the lake, sit on the benches where you can relax and if you have a keen eye you could spot the inhabitant of the lake - brown trout.

Sve domaće: topli kruščić, ajvar, svježi sir, suhe šljive i moj omiljeni pekmez od šipka..

All homemade breakfast: bread, cottage cheese, roasted red peppers spread, dry plums and rose-hip jam. 

 

Recept strpljivo čeka objavu.

Pumpkin scones.

 

 Mum's squash

 

 Making plum grappa

 

Izvukli smo i obrisali prašinu sa starih igara. Put do šole, čovječe na ljuti se, neke bajke, gljive, trilje..
Molim ako se neko sjeća pravila da mi napiše u komentarima. 
Playing old childhood games

 

S obzirom da smo pravila pozaboravljali, morali smo ih izmišljati. I pri tom smo se valjali od smijeha.

Mačak u čizmama gazi čizmama 5 brojeva većim, 10 polja unapred. Ljepotica i žabac, preskačeš 12 bacanja dok čekaš da se žabac pretvori u princa. Čarobnjak (onaj u sredini, ne znamo ni iz koje je on priče!) optrčava vatru, čekaš šesticu da bi mogao dalje. Uspavana ljepotica, preskačeš 7 bacanja dok spavaš 100 godina. Pepeljuga, odbrojava ponoć, ideš na cilj. 

Molim ako se neko sjeća pravila da mi napiše u komentarima. 

 ~~~~

Iako sam za vrijeme mog boravka tamo provela najviše vremena, 

nekako je ispalo da nisam puno slikala dok sam bila u zavičaju..

S toga evo par slika iz naftalina: 

 

Me on my favourite yellow truck

My grandma's rooster, the prettiest in the village

My grandfather's beehouse

My garnddad's VW beetle from 1962.

Vražiji prolaz - Zeleni Vir | Devil's passage - Green Lake

Zeleni vir je izvor u dnu plitke spilje podno visoke stijene. Dobio je ime po zelenkastoj boji vode jezerca koje nastaje u spilji.  Voda iz ovoga vira ulazi u hidrocentralu izgrađenu 1921. godine.

Vražiji prolaz sam zadnji put posjetila kad sam bila klinka. Od te prve posjete ostale su mi u sjećanju samo trule drvene stepenice i huktanje vode. Bilo je divno vratiti se ponovo toj prirodi nakon silnih godina i otkriti da je huktanje i dalje na nekim mjestima toliko glasno da ni vlastite misli ne čuješ, a da su drvene trule stepenice zamjenjene novim, na nekim mjestima čak i metalnim. Priroda je u kasnu jesen zbilja spektakularna. Tišina koja vas okružuje je naprosto pravi odmor za dušu i tijelo. Da bi dobili na vremenu spustili smo se u kanjon kolima, iako je avantura zanimljivija ako se ide pješaka. Put do jezerceta i samog ulaza u prolaz vodi vijugavom i vrlo uskom cestom, dovoljno širokom taman za jedan auto i dva auta se tu nikako ne mogu mimoići. Parkirali smo na parkiralištu i krenuli na izlet. Kroz taj "prolaz" širok oko 2 metra, među stjenama visokim 100tinjak metara, probija se gorski potok Jasle. Voda je tu stoljećima izjedala kamen da bi prokrčila ovaj prolaz koji zapanjuje u jednu ruku snagom vode i divljinom stijena, a u drugu ruku spokojem koji vam to mjesto pruža. Kroz prolaz se ide stazama, a preko potoka vode drveni, a negdje i metalni mostići i stepenice. Povremeno ćete naići na oznake koje biljke i životinje rastu i žive na tim prostorima, pa obratite pažnju.

Na kraju prolaza je spilja koju su lokalni mještani nazvali "Muževa hižica" (hižica=kućica). Prema narodnoj predaji, za vrijeme najezde Turaka oko 1525. godine, tu se djelom sklonilo stanovništvo ovog područja. Gospodar grupe koja se sakrila u spilju bio je muž – muškarac, pa je po tome i dobila naziv ''Muževa hižica''. Spilja je navodno vrlo prostrana, dugačka je oko 200 metara i bogata je sigama, a na kraju spilje koja još nije u cjelosti istražena nalazi se jezerce. U tom jezercu je približno u isto vrijeme kad i u Postojinskoj jami pronađena navodno čovječja ribica. Spilju nismo stigli istražiti jer smo potpuno zaboravili ponijeti rekvizit koji bi nam bio od pomoći - lampu! Istraživanje spilje smo ostavili za sljedeći put.

 

Climbing up the path

Devil's passage

Autumn colours

Kratki video klip | Short video

Green lake is created at the bottom of a shallow cave at the foot of a steep cliff. It was named after the green water of the lake. Water from this stream and the lake enters the power station built in the 1921. Last time I visited the lake and the passage was when I was a kid. The only thing I remember from that trip were rotten wooden stairs and the uproar from the water. It was great to be back again after so many years to discover that the uproar of the water had not changed and delighted that the rotten wooden stairs were replaced with the new ones. Nature in the late autumn is really spectacular. The silence that surrounds you is just a perfect get a way trip for the soul and the body. The road that leads to the lake and the entrance to the passage is very narrow, just wide enough for one car, it is impossible for two cars to pass each other. This "passage" is about 2 meters wide and lies between 100 meters high cliffs. The path goes through the woods, across the wooden and metal bridges and stairs. Occasionally you will find the signs about the local plants and animals that live in these areas, so pay close attention not to miss those. At the end of the passage is a cave which local people call the "husband's house". According to the traditional story, during the Turkish invasion around the year 1525 this cave was a shelter where the local population was hiding. The leader of the group of people who hid in the cave was a husband - a man, and thus the name ''Husband's house''. The cave is supposedly very spacious, measuring about 200 meters and is rich in stalactites and at the end of the cave, which has not yet been fully explored, is a pond. We didn't explore the cave because we completely forgot to take the one piece equipment that would be very useful - the lamp! So we left that for the next time.

Drvene stepenice | Wooden stairs

Orlove Stijene & Litorić | Eagle's Rocks 

Izletište Litorić na nadmorskoj visini preko 700 metara nalazi se okruženo prekrasnim šumskim predjelima. Jedno par kilometara od lovačke kućice nalazi se vidikovac "Orlove stijene". Orlova stijena se uzdiže do kote od 586 metara, a na toj koti je izgrađen vidikovac za razgledavanje okolice. To je betonski ograđeni plato koji ima betonski stol u sredini s betonskim klupama uz ogradu s lijeve i desne strane. S vidikovca se pruža jedan od najljepših pogleda na rijeku Kupu. Pogled puca na samu rijeku i preko na sela susjedne Slovenije. Ako se nađete na ovom vidikovcu svoje utiske možete i zapisati u svesku koja se nalazi u nečem što je nama izgledalo kao kanta za smeće. Po povratku kući smo saznali da je unutra valjda nekakav notez za bilješke.

Eagle's Rock

Predjeli Gorskog kotara su idealni za vožnju bicikla. Kad sam se pripremala za polazak iz Njujorka isprintala sam biciklističke staze i neke zanimljive odrednice, ali jednostavno nisam postigla. Ako ste avanturistički tip ture po ovim mjestima bajsom su neizbježna stavka. Čak su i glavne ceste poprilično puste, a o lokanim da i ne govorim. Ja sam vozila par tura bajsom i zaista je nešto što se ne bi trebalo propustiti. 

Bike tour Moravice-Vrbovsko-Moravice (about 25 kilometers)

Beautiful Litorić forest lies at an altitude about 700 meters, only a couple of kilometers from the "Eagle's Rocks". Eagle's rocks rises to elevations of 586 meters at which there is a lookout to its surrounding area. It is made out of concrete walled plateau that has a concrete benches and concrete table in the middle. The lookout offers one of the most beautiful views of the river Kupa as well as of the villages in the neighboring Slovenia. If you find yourself on the lookout you can write your impressions in the booklet that is hidden in something that looks like a trash can. Trust me, it's not a trash can. 

The view from Eagle's rock. 

Kupa river is a natural border between Croatia and Slovenia. 

Across the river are Slovenian villages.

Areas of Gorski Kotar are ideal for cycling. Before I left NYC I printed out the bike paths and some sightseeing targets but I simply didn't have the time for everything. If you are the adventurous type then biking is the way to go. Even the main roads have little traffic yet alone the side roads. I biked a couple of tours and it is really something that should not be missed.

  Kratki video klip sa bajs vožnje | Short video from the bike ride

Districts of LIKA | KRAJINA | KORDUN

~ Zašto smo odustali od Plitvičkih jezera? ~ 

Da se razumijemo, uopće ne sumnjam da ljepota jezera sama po sebi oduzima dah. Međutim, mi do jezera nismo ni stigli, jer smo već na parkiralištu bili previše razočarani s cijelom organizacijom gdje smo odlučili da se ne isplati plaćati cijenu ulaznice. Čini mi se kao da to vode osobe koja očigledno nemaju pojma kako se vodi dobro posjećeni nacionalni park. Također razumijem da je to cjelodnevni izlet i da moraš biti spreman na planinarenje, ali to bi se i te kako moglo puno bolje oragnizirati. Na kraju krajeva zašto bi ja morala biti prisiljena da tamo provedem cijeli dan?
Ja sam popisala 9 problema na koje smo naišli od kad smo krneuli sa parkirališta dok nismo stigli do samog podnožja brda, gdje valjda počinju jezera.

1. Cijena ulaznice je previše visoka (110 kn za jednu osobu, što je oko 20 i kusur dolara za 1 dan, 180kn za 2 dana)  

2. Parkirna mjesta su naplaćuju po satu (7kn po satu, sto dodje oko 1$ i kusur). 

3. Nema organiziranog prevoza od parkirališta do prvog mini autobusa koji vozi do jezera. Morate hodati malo više od 1 km da bi došli do mini busa, i još dodatnih 1 km do jezera. Budući da nismo kupili ulaznice hodali smo skroz do jezera. I naravno, opet kažem, razumijem da ne možes doći autom do samog jezera, ali  razmislite o tome ako idete s nekim tko ne može hodati predugo jer nigdje uz put nema prilaz za recimo invalidska kolica - čitaj aka - sve je puno stepenica!

4. Po mojoj nekoj logici, nema smisla da se ne mogu kupiti pojedinačne ulaznice za određene trase kao što je vožnja čamcima ili mini bus što navodno vozi oko jezera. Ako ja recimo ne želim provesti čitav dan na jezerima zašto ne bi imala opciju da vidim samo određene dionice i zašto zato ne bi mogla kupiti jeftiniju kartu? (možda potencijalna ideja?) 

5. Nigdje tokom puta do jezera nema klupica za sjesti. To mi je skroz neviđeno!

6. Nigdje uz stazu nema kanti za smeće, a dovoljno puno smeća i plastičnih boca razbacanih po zemlji.

7. Hrana je izuzetno skupa u par restorana pored kojih smo prošli. Trebala sam zapisati cijene, ali nisam se sjetila. Isto vrijedi i za kavu i pića u kafiću dolje kod jezera. Ponesite svoj mezetluk!

8. Nema nigdje mjesta da se ostave svoji utisci za komentare (niti na licu mjesta, niti na njihovim web stranicama) 

9. Posljednje, ali ne manje važno - da platite za svoje parking mjesto trebate prvo odklipati do svog prevoznog ljubimca, uzeti onaj naplatni listić, prošetati natrag do naplatnog štanda, čekati u redu, platiti parking, odšetati natrag u svoj automobil, voziti do izlaza te na kraju provući plaćenu karticu kroz mašinu da bi vam se podigla rampa. 

 
Cjelokupna organizacija - katastrofa, nula bodova! A ni osoblje nije bilo puno ljubaznije kad sam im pokušavala na licu mjesta reći o tim problemima s kojim smo se susreli. Rekli su mi da su vrlo iznenađeni jer da sam ja prva koja se žali (!?) i da mi ne mogu pomoći te odjurili dalje. Zbog ovog svega su zaslužili najnižu ocjenu na tripadvisoru na kojem sam ih ocijenila najlošijom mogućom ocjenom (tamo sam uvidjela da nisam jedina koja se požalila na ove stvari!)

S obzirom da iz protesta nisam ništa htjela slikati, prilažem par maminih slika.

One of the lakes at Lakes Plitvice.

Plitvice Lakes, huge disappointment! 

I have no doubt that the Lakes are beautiful. However, we didn't get see them because by the time we got down to the lakes we were too disappointed with the whole organization that we decided it's not worth paying the price. The whole place seemed as it is being run by a person who has no clue how to run a well-visited-national-park. I was visiting the place with 4 other people.

I'm listing 9 problems that we encountered by the time we came down to the bottom of the hill, where the lakes begin:
1. Admission fee is way too high (110kn which is about 20 something $ per person for 1 day, 180kn for 2 days).
2. Parking spots are metered by the hour (7kn per hour).
3. There is no organized shuttle bus that could take you from the parking to the first shuttle bus or the lakes itself. You have to walk little over 1km to get to the first shuttle bus and about additional 1km to get to the lakes. Since we didn't buy tickets we walked all the way down to the lakes. And of course back again. (Think about this if you're going with someone who can't walk for too long for there is no access to wheel chairs anywhere along the path--aka--plenty of stairs!)
4. Makes no sense (to me) that you can't buy individual tickets for the boat or the shuttle bus. If I don't want to spent the whole day hiking I'd like to have the choice of seeing a portion of the lakes by buying a limited-view ticket that doesn't cost as much (perhaps an idea?).
5. There are no benches to sit along the pathway down to the lakes.
6. There are no garbage bags along the pathway and plenty of garbage and plastic bottles lying on the ground.
7. Food is extremely expensive. Same goes for coffee and drinks at the cafe down by the lakes. Bring your own food and drinks.
8. There is no place for writing your comments (at the physical site nor on their web site).
9. Last but not least--to pay for your parking you need to go back to your car, take the parking ticket, walk back to the parking booth, wait in line, and pay the ticket than walk back to your car, drive to the exit and swipe the paid ticket through a machine..

Overall organization--disaster! And the personnel was no better when I stared telling them about it on the spot. They said I am the first one to complain and that they cannot help me. This deserved the lowest score on tripadviser.

Plitvice Lakes.

Rastoke iliti Male Plitivce | Rastoke, the Watermill Village 

Rastoke je vrlo simpatično malo naselje nedaleko od grada Slunja na Kordunu, za koje je, vjerujem, vrlo mali broj ljudi čuo. Samo ime mjesta govori da se tu nešto preliva i rastače, a to je riječica Slunjčica koja se preko sedimentnih stijena ulijeva u rijeku Koranu, dok pri svom toku kroz ovo naselje stvara mnogo malih jezera i slapova. Zbog toga ovo mjesto još nazivaju i Malim Plitvicama, a do samih Plitvičkih jezera nema ni 30-ak kilometara. Tu možete naći i više stoljetne stare mlinice iliti žličare koje su građene tako da se u njima koriste nekoliko mlinskih kamenova za razne vrste mljevenja. Prva mlinica je sagrađena jos u 17. stoljeću, a možda i ranije.

Ako vas put navede u ove krajeve znajte da u Rastokama postoji mogućnost smještaja, postoji nekolicina restorana u kojima nude autohtonu pastrvu i domaći beskvasni kruh. Ne zaboravite da pazarite i razne vrste brašna!

This little village, in a region of Kordun, is well known for its picturesque little waterfalls along the Slunjchica river, which flows into the river Korana, which originates at Plitvice Lakes. This village is often reffered to as "Little Plitvice Lakes" because of its gorgeous waterfalls and little lakes. The name Rastoke refers to the branching of rivers. Rastoke is an interesting place because of its traditional features. Houses and mills were built in the unique architectural style of this region. The ground parts of the houses are made out of travertine, while the higher parts consist of wood. The roofs are made by shingle or tiles. At its peak time, Rastoke counted up to 22 mills. The first mill dates back to the 17th century. Every mill had two or three, some even more millstones. Most millstones were used for grinding so called "black corn". This term then comprised the following sorts: maize, rye, barley, millet and oat. The best stones have been used for grinding so called "white corn" or wheat. If you're ever in this part of the world, know that there are number of accommodations as well as restaurants that offer famous local trouts as well as homemade bread. You can also buy freshly grounded flour. 

Zbog boljeg prikaza ovog mjesta sljedeće 3 slike su preuzete s neta:

 

 (slika preuzeta s neta | picture from the internet)

 

  (slika preuzeta s neta | picture from the internet)

 (slika preuzeta s neta | picture from the internet)

Krajina 

Šta reći o Krajini, a ne zaplakati. Srce da ti se raspukne od tuge. Razoreno. Pusto. Prazno. Zaraslo. Nisam imala volje slikati, no svega par slika. A o tome se danas ne priča na televiziji. Ne čita u novinama. Kao da je to neka davno zaboravljena prošlost. Neki drugi svijet. Druga država. A ono što se zaboravi osuđeno je da se ponovi. A ne ponovilo se. Kad prolazite krajiškim selima kao da prolazite kroz neki loš film. Neki holivudski scenario. Kao iz onog fima "Wag the dog" gdje sceniraju izmišljeni rat. Nevjerovatno je da sve stoji kao da je rat jučer završio, a ne pred skoro 20 godina. Da nije obrasle trave, korova i mladog drveća što raste iz rasturenih kuća neko bi možda i pomislio da se završio jučer. Većina kuća je razrušeno, naseljeno je svega ono malo obnovljenih i to većinom starim stanovništvom. Mladi su pobjegli glavom bez obzira. Poticaj od države je bijedan, bolje reći nikakav. A kako da se narod vrati kad još uvijek vidiš natpise "opasnost od mina"? Kako da obnavljaš ako se bojiš stupiti u vlastito dvorište od straha da te ne raznese zaostala mina? Kako da se obnove ognjišta kad je sve ili pokradeno ili zapaljeno ili razrušeno? Da iz početka gradiš sve iz temelja, malo ljudi ima za to snagu i volju. Vratili su se starci da umru u miru na svojim ognjištima. Mladi se tu nikad neće vratiti. A mi, prolaznici, možemo samo da svjedočimo da se tu nekad odvijao život.

 

 

  

What to say about the Krajina province and not cry. The heart bursts with grief. Destroyed. Deserted. Empty. Overgrown. I took just a couple of pictures. And today nobody talks about it anymore on television. You can't read about it in the newspapers. Like it's some long-forgotten past. Another world. Another country. And what is forgotten is doomed to repeat itself. And pray to the gods that it doen't happen again. When you pass through Krajina villages it's like going through a bad movie. Some Hollywood screenplay like the film "Wag the Dog" where they screen fictional war. It's amazing that everything is as if the war ended yesterday and not nearly 20 years ago. If it weren't for the weeds and the trees that grow from the houses you would think it ended yesterday. Most of the houses are demolished, abandonded, and only those few that are restored are inhabited mostly with elderly population. Young people have fled without looking back. The help from the goverment is miserable, better to say non existent. And how could it be better when the economy of the whole country is worse than bad. And how to get people to come back when you still see the labels "danger: mines"? And how to renew the houses if one is afraid to get in one's own backyard for the fear of mines? And how to rebuild homes when everything is either stolen or burned or destroyed? To build everything from scratch only a few people have the strength and the will to do it. The ones that returned are old people who want to die in peace on their land. Young people will never return to this area. And we, the passers-by, we can only witness to the place that once was full of life.

 

SJEVERNO PRIMORJE | Northern Adriatic Coast

Rijeka | Fiume | Pflaum | City of Rijeka

Kad je u pitanju mjesto rođenja može li se biti objektivan prilikom opisa? Ne bi da sam previše "stručna" jer se o bilo kojem gradu može pročitati na netu, pa tako i o Rijeci. Ali ajd' da probam sažeti bar onaj mali dio tog grada na Rječini. Ipak, to je grad sa veoma bogatom povijesti, čiji tragovi sežu čak u četvrto stoljeće nove ere. Grad se nalazi na sjevernoj obali Kvanerskog zaljeva. Do njega se vodenim putem može doći kroz Vela vrata (između Istre i otoka Cresa), Srednjih vrata (između Cresa i otoka Krka) ili Malih vrata (između Krka i kopna). Najveći procvat grad ipak doživljava krajem 19. stoljeća za vrijeme vladavine Mađara koji su grad razvili u veliko pomorsko-lučko središte. U to vrijeme dolazi i do supraništva između dva grada u monarhiji, Rijeke koja je bila pod mađarskom upravom, i Trsta koji je bio pod austrijskom. Nakon raspada Austro-Ugarske (1918.) Rijeka je jedno vrijeme bila slobodna država (garant ovo niste znali!). Kao takva je postojala od 1920.-1924. kada je to poništila Kraljevina Italija. Ta aneksija je i do danas ostala sporna budući da nije međunarodno pravno priznata. Nakon toga biva pripojena Italiji sve do njenog oslobođenja 3. maja 1945. godine.

 

The view from Trsat fortress.

View from the pier.

Riječani koji su rođeni 1913. i doživjeli 1991. (kao što je bio moj deda) promjenili su 6 država: Austro-Ugarsku, Slobodnu Državu Rijeku, Kraljevinu Italiju, Treći Reich (Njemačku), SFR Jugoslaviju i Republiku Hvatsku.

Nekada najveća luka u sjevernom Jadranu, glavno pomorske sjecište sa multietničkim karakterom, sa izvrsnim položajem koji malo koji grad ima, središte razvoja punk pokreta (Pankrti, Paraf, Termiti) i alternativne muzike, sa oko 145.000 stanovnika. Devedesetih naglo propada u svakom smislu. Danas je to grad bez brodova, bez industrije, bez brodogradilišta, bez torpeda, bez lučkog prometa, bez alternative, grad sa jedva 120.000 stanovnika. Grad koji pokušava svoj razvoj usmjeriti iz industrijskog u turistički. Grad koji, čini mi se, trenutno stagnira po pitanju razvoja. Ali nadam se optimističnoj budućnosti. Voljela bi jednog dana grad Rijeku vidjeti kako ponovo cvijeta. Možda više nikad neće biti glavna luka kao što je bila tokom povijesti, ali veliki potencijal ima da se razvija kao studentski i kulturni centar tih prostora. 

Green market and fish market, the best place to get fresh fish!

When it comes to the place of birth can you be objective when describing it? I'l try to be objective but not too formal because anyone can read Rijeka's history on the internet. I will try to summarize its rich history whose records go back to the fourth century AD. The city is located on the northern coast of the Gulf of Kvarner. You can reach it by water through the Big gate (between Istria and the island of Cres), the Middle gate (between Cres and the island of Krk) or the Small gate (between Krk and the mainland). There are two reasons why the city of Rijeka was able to develop as a major port. The first is that this part of the bay is deep enough for the largest sailing ships to enter the harbor. The second reason is that Rijeka is a crossroad of two very important land transport routes that allowed transportation of goods to and from the port. One is towards the Pannonian inland and the other towards central Europe. From the very biginning the city was under the rule of many. It was in possession of the Byzantine Empire, the Lombards, the Franks, the Italians, Frankopans', Habsburgs' and other characters. But most flourishing times were at the late 19th century during the reign of Hungarians who have developed the city in the great maritime port. At the same time there was rivalry between the two cities in the monarchy, Rijeka which was under Hungarian rule, and Trieste, which was under Austrian rule. After the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918 Rijeka became a free state. As such it existed from 1920 to 1924 when it was annulled by the Kingdom of Italy. The annexation has remained controversial to the present day since it was not legally recognized internationally. After that it was merged with Italy until its liberation on 3rd of May 1945 when it became part of Yugoslavia. It is believed that Rijeka and Istria were the first in the world that began the fight against the fascism, in 1921 during the Istrian miners' uprising, which is considered the first antifascist uprising in the world. 

 

Rijeka's clock tower. 

Popular place to meet with someone, "meet me under the clock".

 

Fishing boat.

 Najkraći put od centra do Trsata je Trsatskim stubama, njiih samo 561, pa ko voli nek' izvoli.

The shortest way to get from the center to Trsat fortress. Only 561 steps.

Opatija | Abbazia | Opatija Town

Opatija je turistički gradić koji se nalazi na obali istarskog poluotoka i leži podno planine Učke. Ovo mjesto je interesantno kao jednodnevno odredište, ali ako niste neko kome je do pasivnog odmora onda stvano ne znam šta bi radili u Opatiji duže od jednog dana. Opatija je simpatično mjestašce sa zanimljivom arhitekturom, starim austro-ugarskim vilama, šetalištima, plažama i lijepo uređenim parkovima. Zimi je Opatija poprilično mrtva sa astronomskim cijenama (pretpostavljam da su cijene takve i tokom ljetne sezone). Također imajte u obziru da u Opatiji sunce vrlo brzo zalazi, i ljeti, a još brže i zimi, upravo zbog Učke koja strši iznad nje.

 Djevojka sa galebom - simbol Kvarnera. 

Priču o tome ko je bila djevojka možete pročitati ovdje. 

Maiden with the seagull. Learn more about the story behind the girl here.

 

Rijeka in the distance.

Marunada, poznati Lovranski festival kestena. 
Chestnut desserts are very popular in this part of the world. 
Especially in the fall during Marunada, the Chestnuts festival.

Opatija is a tourist town located on the coast of Istrian peninsula and lies at the foot of the mountain Uchka. This place is interesting as a one-day destination, but if you are not someone who is looking for a passive vacation then I really don't know what you would do in Opatija for longer than one day. It is a nice little town with very interesting architecture, old Austro-Hungarian villas, promenades, beaches and beautifully landscaped parks. During the winter, the town is quite dead with astronomical prices (I assume that the prices are astronomical during the summer season as well). Luckily, Rijeka is very near by, as well as Istria, therefore you could be situated in Opatija and travel to other places.

 

 Slatina, the most well known swimming site in Opatija.

ISTRA | District of ISTRIA 

Pula| Pola | Pulj | Polei | City of Pula

Pula, najveći grad u Istri, leži u zaštićenom zaljevu pa je poznat po mirnom moru i blagoj klimi. Najraniji tragovi naseljenosti na ovim područjima datiraju iz 10. stoljeća prije nove ere. Romanizaciju istarskog poluotoka su započeli, niko drugi nego Rimljani još stotinjak godina prije nove ere. Tada je grad bio značajna rimska luka, a za vrijeme Bizantije i glavna luka bizantinske mornarice. Tokom povijesti grad je mnogo puta rušen, razaran i opustošen, ali je isto toliko puta i obnavljan i ponovo podizan. Za vrijeme rimske vladavine izgrađena su zdanja od kojih neka stoje i dan danas (Dvojna vrata, Herkulova vrata i Slavoluk), prve kanalizacije i prvi vodovodi.

Rome and Augustine temple.

Old balcony.

Amfiteatar iliti Pulska Arena 

Arena je najsačuvaniji spomenik antičkog graditeljstva na tim prostorima i 6. je po redu među rimskim amfiteatrima u svijetu. Prostor za gledatelje se nalazio iznad same arene i širio se u koncentričnim stepeničasto položenim redovima kamenih sjedala. Sa stubišta se gledalo u borilište, gdje su se najčešće pratile gladijatorske i slične borbe.

Pula, the largest city in Istria, lies in a protected bay, and thus is known for its calm sea and mild climate. The earliest traces of human settlements in this area date back to the 10th century BC. The first settlement was founded by Histri, people of ancient Illyrian tribes. Romanization of the Istrian peninsula was started by the Romans, about hundred years BC. The city was then an important Roman port, and during the Byzantine it  remained port of the Byzantine navy. Throughout the history the city was destroyed many times but it was also rebuilt many times. During the Roman Empire the Romans have built some of the grand pieces which stand to this day (Twin Gate, the Gate of Hercules and the Arc). Pula was later ruled by the Frankish kingdom, then the Venetians, Pizano's, the Austro-Hungarians and Italians. So with all these characters ruling the city, Pula developed a strong tradition of shipbuilding, as well as tourism, fishing and wine industry.

Golden arch. 

 

Natpisi po čitavoj Istri su dvojezični, hrvatski i talijanski. 

All street signs are in two languages. Croatian and Italian. 

Arena, the amphitheater 

Arena is the best preserved monument of ancient architecture in these areas and the 6th among the Roman amphitheaters in the world. It is the only one that has all three Roman architectural orders preserved. Walls are made ​​of different types of materials, local limestone mixed with small stones and  mortar. The stones for the construction were transported from local quarries located along the coast. Arena could seat about 23,000 spectators. The auditorium is located above the arena and spread in concentric rows of stone seats. One could get in the amphitheater through 15 different passages.

   

Rovinj | Rovigno | City of Rovinj

Rovinj se nalazi na zapadnoj obali Istarskog poluotoka i sa Porečom čini najjači turistički centar Istre. Mi smo Rovinj posjetili sunčanog i toplog popodnevna u kasnom oktobru i gradić je djelovao potpuno pust. Ponešto naroda je sjedilo u kafanama kraj obale, ali sam centar je bio potpuno prazan. Ne samo što nije bilo ljudi na ulicama već su i radnje bile zatvorene, a na mnogim prozorima su roletne bile zabarikadirane, kanda svi spavaju zimski san do sljedeće sezone. Čak štoviše, meni se potpuno svidjela avantura šetanja pustim ulicama. Nije bilo ljetne vreve i gužve (mama je spomenula da su oni bili ljetos i da su ulice bile neprohodne od ljudi), nije bilo galame, sudaranja sa turistima i sličnih situacija. Generalno izbjegavam mjesta koja su preopterećena ljudima tako da je ovo bila prava oaza za mene. Potpuni mir i prostora koliko hoćemo samo za nas da natenane utvrdimo svaki kamen i svaki detalj. Srećom kad si u Istri sve ti je blizu, pa ako se odlučite za ovu destinaciju uvijek možete imati kratkodnevne izlete do drugih mjesta po Istri.

Empty streets.

 

 

Rovinj is located on the western coast of the Istrian peninsula and with city of Porech makes the strongest tourist destination. We visited Rovinj on a sunny day in late October and the town was completely deserted. Some people sat in cafes near the coast and enjoyed the last rays of warm sun, but the very center was totally empty. Not only was there no people on the streets but the stores were closed and many houses seemed all packed up and abandoned, waiting to re-open when the next season starts. However, I totally loved the adventure of cruising the promenades of deserted streets. There was no touristy crowds (mom mentioned they were there during the summer and the streets were overcrowded with tourists). There was no noise nor running into people. I do try to avoid overcrowded places in general. Complete peace and time just for us to examine every stone and every detail on the empty streets. You just have to be careful how you walk, because the paved stones in the streets, although very authentic for the coastal town, are not exactly taken care of so you can easily stumble upon them. Overall, a very charming little town. Do stop by if you're ever in the area! 

 

DALMACIJA | District of Dalmatia

Split | Spalato | City of Split 

Iako smo do pred rat često ljetovali u Tijesnom, u Splitu nisam nikad bila (ili se bar ne sjećam da jesam). U svakom slučaju umalo i ovog puta da odustanem od puta kad sam saznala koliko se iz Rijeke putuje do Splita. Naime, moja dugogodišnja najbolja drugar'ca (išle smo u isti razred u osnovnoj, a poslje i u istu srednju, ona za zubnog tehničara, a ja za medicinsku sestru) se udala za Spliću pa se tako preselila sa sjevera Kvarnera u Dalmaciju. Dogovor je bio da obavezno dođem k njima. Prilikom posljednje izmjene informacija ona spomenu da je možda dobro da uzmem noćni bus pa da mogu spavati. Pomislih, prvo, ne volim putovati noću, a drugo, zašto da idem noću, pa nije Split na kraj svijeta. A jok nije! Skoro pa k'o da i jeste! Onda sam uvidjela da se do Splita busom gusla punih 8 (o-s-a-m!) sati. Pa prije sam stigla iz Njujorka do Beograda nego iz Rijeke u Split. Nema busa koji ide autoputem (to im se valjda financijski ne isplati), pa onda šole vozi magistralom i tako se truckaš Rijeka-Bakar-Kraljevica-Crikvenica-Novi Vinodolski-Senj-Karlobag-Zadar-Šibenik-i najzad Split i između stajući u stotine drugih mjesta, sela i zaseoka! Srećom bio je predivan sunčan dan tako da sam uživala u vožnji magistralom ka jugu nakon svih tih godina. Ali natrag ka sjeveru je bila kišna noćna mora, sa kašnjenjem, bez dužih stajanja, vožnja koja je izgledala kao da nikad neće završiti. Čak sam razmišljala da se vratim avionom, ali ta relacija, na moju žalost, ne postoji. Uglavnom, i tih osam sati ka jugu je nekako brzo prošlo, malo čitaš knjigu, malo zuriš kroz prozor.. a onda smo napokon stigli na Splitsku rivu i ja sam ih ugledala! Sanja&Kate! Neka prijateljstva su zaista vječna. Čak i nakon toliko godina imala sam osjećaj kao da smo se jučer rastale, bez obzira što se more stvari izdešavalo u međuvremenu. Tolike godine su prošle, a njih dvije se ništa nisu promjenile. I tako je boravak u Splitu bio pravi odmor! Ćaskanje, kafenisanje, prisjećanje starih školskih dana, anegdota, ispada, ljetnih avantura, nekih putovanja, ljudi koji su prolazili našim putanjama, smijeha na pretek. I nadasve druženje sa tom malom šmizlom, bebom T, koju sam isčekivala upoznati od kako se rodila. Pa onda šetnje rivom, razgledavanje grada, te Mrdujska regata, jedna od najstarijih regata u Evropi (prva regata je održana 1927. godine). Otočić Mrduja, po kom je ova regata i dobila ime, je okretište i cilj na liniji Split-Mrduja-Split, dugoj oko 20-ak morskih milja. (Ja valjda u koji god grad da dođem moram završiti na nekom brodu, ili bar barci). Kažu da žena na barci navodno donosi nesreću, ali ja sam ekipi El Ninjo jedrilice ovog puta donjela sreću, jer kažu da su prvi put završili regatu te me pozvali da im se pridružim i sljedeće godine! =)

 

Još uvijek (strpljivo) čekam recept. 

Fish coated with sea salt.

During my childhood we often vacationed in Dalmacija but I have never visited Split (or at least I don't remember if I did). I almost canceled my trip to Split this time when I found out how long it takes from Rijeka to Split by bus. I wouldn't even planed the trip if it hadn't been for my best friend that moved there after she got married. Perhaps it was an excellent move on her behalf, however not so good for me because now I have one additional destination I need to visit when going to the Balkans. (Okay, okay, maybe the trip to Dalmatia isn't so bad!). During one of our last conversations before my departure she suggested that I take the night bus so I could sleep. First, I don't like traveling by night, and second, Split is not at the end of the world. Then I realized that the bus to Split takes 8 full hours. Well, it proved to be almost at the end of the world! It took me less time to come from NYC to Belgrade then it took me from Rijeka to Split. The bus avoids the highway because it's expensive and it doesn't get much passengers so they take the long way and stop at every village and every town along the way. Luckily it was a beautiful sunny day and I enjoyed the ride to the south. But traveling back north was a rainy nightmare, with delays and without brakes for restroom. It was a ride that looked as if it will never end. I was even considering taking a plane on the way back but there is no flights on that relation. At the end, those eight hours down south went by quickly, great time to catch up on some book reading, and staring through the window was pleasant as well. So, after 8 hours we finally arrived and then I saw them! Sanja & Kate! Some friendships are truly eternal. Even after so many years that we haven't seen each other it felt like it was just yesterday that we parted. So my stay in Split was a true vacation! Chat time, endless coffee time, recalling school days, anecdotes, incidents, summer adventures, past travels, people who have passed our courses, walking along the waterfront, sightseeing. And of course finally meeting and getting to know little Baby T. I was also part of a boat race (I guess in whatever city I come I end up on a ship or a boat). Mrduja race is one of the oldest regattas in Europe (the first race was held in 1927). The little island Mrduja, after which the race is named, is a turning point for the Split-Mrduja-Split relation, about 20 nautical miles long. Sailors say that a woman on the boat supposedly brings bad luck, but this time my present  brought team of El Nino sail boat a sailing victory because they say it was their first time they completed the race and invited me to join them next year as well! =)

 

Rič dve o samom gradu

Split je smješten na Marjanskom polustrvu u srednjoj Dalmaciji. Najstariji ostaci koji ukazuju na naselje u tom dijelu sežu iz antičkog doba. Iako se većina Splita veže uz gradnju Dioklecijanove palače u 4. stoljeću, iskopine pokazuju da je ovo područje bilo naseljeno u starom rimskom dobu i prije Dioklecijana.

City view from Marjan hill.

Word or two about the city 

Split is situated in central Dalmatia. The oldest remains that indicate the settlement in this area date back to the ancient times. The city lies underneath the hills of Mosor, Kozjak and Perun. The oldest part of the city is located at the foot of Marjan hill. Although Split is often refereed to with the construction of Diocletian's Palace in the fourth century, the true excavations indicate that this area was inhabited in ancient Roman times even before Diocletian.

 Harbor and Riva promenade.

Dioklecijanova Palača i njeni podrumi

Ovo je najbolje sačuvana antička palača na svijetu. Sagradio je oko 300. godine nove ere rimski car Dioklecijan. Danas su od kompleksa sačuvane zidine, četvora vrata, carev mauzolej, Jupiterov hram, središnji trg Peristil i južno od njega Vestibul. Iskopavanje Dioklecijanovih podruma je započelo u 19. stoljeću, a najviše se otkrilo tokom 50-ih godina prošlog vijeka.  Ono što je zapravo najzanimljivije od svega je to što je Split vrlo jedinstven grad u svijetu.  To je zato što se iznad njegovih vrlo dojmljivih i monumentalnih prostora, nalazi živi grad, kuće i ljudi koji već gotovo hiljadu i po godina konstantno žive gradski život bez i jednog dana prestanka.

 

With the walls of Dioklecijan's palace.

Diocletian's Palace and its cellars 

This is one of the best preserved ancient palaces in the world. It was build around 300 AD by the Roman emperor Diocletian. It was his residence for about 10 years from the time he retired from the throne until his death. It was built in the bay of the peninsula, a few kilometers south of Salona, ​​the capital of the province. Its shape resembles a military camp with rectangular exterior walls. The east and west walls are measuring about 216 meters, the southern about 180 and northern approximately 175 meters. The northern part was where the servants, the army and warehouse were located, while the emperor's quarters were in the southern part. There were four entrances to the palace. Three from the land and one from the sea. Today, the complex preserved its walls, four gates (Golden - Porta Aurea, Silver - Porta Argentea, Iron - Porta Ferrea and Brass - Porta Aenea), the emperor's mausoleum (today's Cathedral of St. Duje), Jupiter's Temple, the Peristyle and the central square to the south of it, the Vestibule. The most interesting is the south side which is facing the sea and at which, at the time of Diocletian, the sea dashed against its walls.  

Excavation of Diocletian's cellars began in the 19th century, but most foundings were discovered during the 1950s of the last century. The western part of the basement is fully preserved and is open and accessible to sightseeing. The eastern part has partly collapsed, but today the part of it is open to the public. The most interesting part is that Split is actually a unique city in the world. Because of the fact that above his very impressive and monumental cellers people have been continuously living on the streets of Split for nearly a thousand years.

The view on Riva promenade through the window in Dioklecian's palace.

Peristil

Peristil je naziv trga ispred Svetog Dujam u Starom dijelu grada. 

Kratki video klip | Short video

Klapa | Traditional Dalmatian band

Peristyle  

Peristyle is the name of the square in front of St. Duje in the old part of town. It is an open space surrounded by pillars. The facade of the square is divided into two parts, the upper part leads into a vestibule and the lower leads to the cellars of the palace.

Splitska katedrala

Katedrala je smještena na Peristilu, i prvobitno je bila carski mauzolej. Ova katedrala svetog Duje se smatra najstarijom katedralom na svijetu. Gradnja zvonika je započeta sredinom 13. a završena sredinom 16. stoljeća. Zbog dugog perioda gradnje na zvoniku se raspoznaje kombinacija dvaju stilova--romaničkog i gotičkog.

Cathedral of Saint Domnius

 
 

The Cathedral of Saint Domnius

The cathedral is located at the Peristyle and was originally an imperial mausoleum. The Cathedral of St. Duje is considered one of the oldest cathedrals in the world. Outside it is build in octagonal while on the inside in a round shape. It has one of the most unique bell towers on the Adriatic coast. Building of the bell-tower was started in the middle of 13th and was ended in the mid 16th century. Due to the long period of construction on the tower one can recognize a combination of two styles-- the Romanesque and the Gothic. The decorative elements dominate more with the first and its architecture with the latter style. 

 
Rainy return to Rijeka.
Adieu until next time!


Više slika i kratkih klipova možete pogledati na mom fliker nalogu | For more pictures click on the link:

Fliker slike | Flickr pictures

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ae!